The Cabardès begins immediately north of the town and is the local curiosity: the one appellation where Atlantic grapes and Mediterranean grapes are blended in the same wine, because the weather divide runs straight through it. Cabernet and merlot alongside syrah and grenache, which happens almost nowhere else in France.
The Minervois lies northeast, drier and warmer, and the Corbières to the southeast, bigger and more varied, running down towards the coast through some genuinely wild country with Cathar castles on the ridges.
Visiting is informal. Many domaines have no tasting room and no set hours, just a sign at the gate and someone in the chai. Turning up between about ten and midday, or after three, works more often than not. A word of French helps and is not essential.
Buy by the case if you like it, because the price difference is significant and the wine is heavy to carry twice. Most places will let you taste four or five without any expectation, though buying something is good manners.
If you would rather not drive, several operators run half-day tours from Carcassonne, and the tourist office in the Bastide keeps a current list. Driving between domaines and tasting properly are not compatible activities.
